Miscellaneous Tips
Something I forgot to include in the “What you should carry” article is a ----
Extra master link for your chain – Carry an extra master link for your chain (two pins connected by an outside link plate, 4 O-rings, a free unattached link plate, and a clip) with your tools. Also, have plenty of grease on the pins. You will also need a pair of pliers and a nut that is large enough to fit over the end of the pins and against the link plate. To install a master link: 1) place an O-ring over each pin, 2) grease the pins and the insides of the rollers the pins will slide through, 3) run the pins through the rollers of each end of the chain, 4) place an O-ring over the ends of the exposed pins, 5) place the free link plate on the pins, 6) using the nut and pliers, press the free link plate until the grooves for the clip on the pins are showing (place the nut on the free plate over one of the pins and squeeze the nut against the pin on the opposite end; alternating between the two pins several times until the groove shows on both pins), 7) and finally place the retention clip into the grooves and snap into place with the pliers until flush with the link plate. Make sure the rounded end of the clip faces the direction of chain travel so the clip doesn’t get knocked off. I’ve replaced many chains myself, but never had to deal with a broken chain on the trail and don’t know if it’s also necessary to have a chain breaker (for removing extra links of the chain). A chain breaker is not very big, but is heavy for its size (I don’t carry one, so that is probably what I’ll need some day).
The following items are not essential for riding, but will greatly increase your comfort.
Ergonomics – Adjust the controls, seat, and handlebars to suit your posture. This is a subject for a future article, but basically you need to set the hand levers so that when you lay your fingers flat on the lever, your fingers/hand should be level with your lower arm (compromise between a sitting and standing position). You should be able to comfortably cover both foot controls with your feet while you are in a normal riding position. Seat height and handlebar position should be comfortable for you. Most bikes are made for people in the 5’-8” to 5’-10” range. If you are outside that range you will need to make changes. I’m 6’-2” and have a taller seat foam that makes going from the seated position to standing much easier. I also have the “Jimmy Button” style of bars and they are the highest and most forward bars I have found. This bar and seat combination makes my bike soooo much more comfortable for me.
Synthetic Underwear – If you are still wearing a lot of cotton, have I got a tip for you. Keep it for after-ride attire. Cotton is the most comfortable thing in the world – when dry. When it gets wet from sweat or rain, it stays wet and uncomfortable. Get yourself a good quality set of polypropylene, polyester, or equivalent wicking type underwear. This material wicks moisture away from your skin. Get both a short and long sleeve T-shirt (for the long sleeve, I prefer a turtleneck) and bottom underwear for varying conditions. For the unmentionables (I’m blushing), polyester briefs or lycra biking shorts are especially great. I used to wear the lycra shorts but found some polyester briefs from Cabela’s to be perfect for me. Cotton socks? Toss-em. Coolmax or other wicking synthetics are the best; and get the type made for dirtbiking, as they are the right height and thickness.
Kidney belt – This is a simple girdle-belt looking thingie that you wrap around your mid-section (usually adjustable with Velcro) to keep your insides from jiggling around. I don’t know all there is to know about why these work, but it increases your comfort level a lot. At the end of the day, you will be less fatigued.
So, there it is; everything you ever wanted to know about riding with the dirtbike fanatics of NCTR. Ride safe, have fun, and I’ll see you on the trail!